OTW AW19 Fashion Week Show
Photo Credit: Laura De Meo
Shie Lyu incorporates her background in finance and accounting into her fashion. She is meticulous and avid in intricate patterns combined with a sense of current trends and styles. Her work has been in part inspired by Mogoly Nagy’s light display at the Guggenheim museum, an artist who is constantly referred to as a scientist for his innovative use of light in his, ‘quest to illuminate the interrelatedness of life, art and technology.’ This is apparent in her work as brightness and symmetry play a huge role in almost all of her designs.
Shie Lyu’s work is best known for its use of odd materials like rubber and manipulated Perspex whilst maintaining a mathematically precise dimension. This is arguably, also inspired by Mogoly Nagy who insisted that it is important for artists to be working with materials of their own times.
As opposed to other designers there is no consistency in the colouring of her pieces, it ranges from neon green to pastel pink, there are only two things that persists, the firstly which is the most crucial is the arithmetic precision her work exudes. Secondly is that a lot of her pieces are fashioned on ‘smart wear’, mainly feminine in the pant suits and pencil skirts that dominated her catwalk. Her work is confounding not only in the optic satisfaction of her symmetrical patterns but also in the understated beauty of it all.
1×1 Studio is London based men’s knitwear brand, established in 2017 with a clear purpose of creating sustainable and fashionable apparel. The label is led by two designers, Yi-ling Kuo and Wei-Yao Lin who spilt responsibilities and passions down the middle to produce immense pieces of work. Kuo looks after the technical side of things whereas Lin is purely design focussed. This duplicity of roles is united by their shared values in utilizing recycled material in order to raise awareness of reducing waste and promoting creative uses of environmentally harmful products.
They have a shared interested in technology and in particular man’s growing reliance on it. They have looked into various technological advances since the 80’s and present them in wonderful, woollen pieces a style in particular that also reflects their message; productive yet trendy.
The samples of work expressed in their AW19 collection exemplified their concept perfectly as the models walked the catwalk in black and subtle neon patterned jumpers with futuristic type thin sunglasses. Some of the models had plastic helmets on and strange robotic like head pieces. All the clothing was darkly coloured in either black or navy often featuring blues and greens decorated on the front. All had a casual, streetwear feel to them, that coupled with these odd trinkets of futuristic life, felt like being propelled into a new generation.
Despite their pre-occupation with technology, they bear in mind the story of Icarus, relating it to the modern day to highlight that although constant advances made in technology since the 80’s are astounding and fascinating, we will be destroyed if we place a heavy reliance on them.
Bowen Hu’s AW19 collection was entitled ‘Lucid Dream’ and in keeping with her style, appealed to all the senses. Her work is genderless and is aimed to represent certain mind sets through the physicality of the pieces. There is an obvious artistic dimension to her work that sets it apart.
She focuses heavily on textiles and how they can be manipulated to present certain mind sets, she employs a ‘side on’ layering technique to add another dimension to her pieces.During the formation of this collection she researched dream analysis and in particular the brain waves of people asleep, along with this she bestowed individual stories onto each garment of personal dreams.
This collection was undulated with soft pinks, greys and creams to create a soft, flowing element that complimented the ruffles and swirls that dominated each outfit. These further instil a ‘dreamy’ aspect to the pieces. The show in total had a hypnotic feel to them that captures all the senses; the music she carefully chose was light and psychedelic, the soft nature of the colouring and textures set your mind awhirl and despite not touching them you could see that they had a soft, comfortable feel about them.
Bowen Hu’s work appeals to the humanity in us all. She is not trying to envisage a futuristic world nor does she propagate her work with an apparent urban feel; she is, through soft hues and wonderful textiles, reminding us of the reality we are in, of the intricacies and psychological sensation of everyday life.
Aurelie Fontan is a Paris born, London based woman’s wear designer. Her label launch in 2018 secured her as a sustainable fashion designer. She focuses mainly on bio-design combined with utilizing technology to produce environmentally friendly, specialised pieces. Samsung commissioned her to make the first 90% recycled, biodegradable couture collection, designed completely through a smart phone. This is a perfect example of her concept; a marriage of biodegradable materials manufactured through cutting edge technology.
Her AW19 collection entitled ‘Tensegrity’ has been engineered mostly in a science lab by Aurelie herself, with bacteria, grown yeasts and 100% biodegradable kombucha. The dresses of the collection where all black and bronze with sharp edges and elaborate collars. Despite this harsh exterior they remained extremely feminine with soft, textured silhouettes.
The colouring in the collection of predominantly bronze could perhaps be telling of the concept; the ‘bronze-age’ of fashion highlighting the radical nature of the movement. Propelling us into the future of fashion with recycled leathers and naturally produced materials for a more ethical, sustainable world. Aurelie is spear heading this movement and her collection is a testament to the future of design.
The Ones To Watch show was a mesmerizing display of different yet all very accomplished artists. It was fascinating to be submerged into their worlds so vividly; from the intricate, strict patterning of Shie Lyu, to the utopic futures of 1×1 Studio and Aurelie Fontan all soothed by the cathartic, soft swirls of Bowen Hu. A show facilitated for all the senses, keeping you very much on the edge of your seat. The values and aims of all artists are profound and exude naturally through their pieces. There is no doubt that they will all go on to continue to inspire awe and essentially mould the world of fashion into a sustainable, environmentally compassionate business.