Image from Percevalties

Image from Percevalties

Aganovich is a Paris based women’s wear label founded in 2005, whose designs have a simply unique presence with architectural integrity when showcased at Paris fashion week. The Spring Summer RTW 2014 collection named Heretic is the label’s 10th collection to be released since Aganovich’s conception. Brooke Taylor and Nana Aganovich who studied fashion at Central Saint Martin’s School of Art and Designare the minds behind the label. Originally named Aganovich and Yung in 2005 when Nana worked alongside Ahlaiya Yung, after the two parted ways the label became Aganovich. First debuting their label in Paris, October 2009, with an everlasting impact that has extended Aganovich into the British fashion industry. With a design aesthetic that is intelligently thought out to create a subtle seductive beauty for wearable fashion.

The inspiration behind the Heretic collection has been a prolific development for the label. Lily Templeton from NowFashiontalks about the Aganovich experience backstage in Paris when Brooke Taylor reflects on the collection’s metamorphosis “the starting point was Elizabeth the First, the Virgin Queen, but it expanded to highlight how women were condemned for their sexuality in centuries past.” This growing influence was present on the runway with concealed garments covering almost the whole body progressing to a slight show of skin towards the close of the collection. The nostalgic theme played into clean-cut white dresses layered with a deconstructed corset as seen below.

Images from Aganovich WebsiteImages from Aganovich WebsiteImages from Aganovich Website

Images from Aganovich Website

In an interview for The D-VineNana is questioned on her own style and highlights her idea of “covering and dressing, and then bringing this kind of seduction afterwards so it is not so obvious.” This idea of style is seen in Heretic, with the modest display of the neck. The pieces do not demand an instant alluring quality, but acknowledge the idea of sexuality in a subtle way with the inventive construction of the designs that give a sophisticated sensual twist to each piece.

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Elizabethan inspired prints added a rich texture, as seen on the runway in the harem pant and top ensemble and a coat variation. The rich pink and rose, gold and black-silver colorations, allowed the strong silhouettes of the garments to be seen in a different light.

Images from Percevalties

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Images from Percevalties

Image from Aganovich Website

Image from Aganovich Website

The luxurious materials of the garments were paired with a natural make up palette on the models faces to almost reflect the ambience of the catwalk. As the theme of the collection progressed a statement was made with a deconstructed Elizabethan inspired face artistry combined with a rich pink ensemble.

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The creative genius of the label moves into art with Aganovich’s ongoing portrait series with illustrator Clifford Harper, merging with the inspiration for the label see here. Aganovich are creating a legacy to be remembered with each of their collections, making them a definite one to watch of emerging designers. For endless women’s wear inspiration follow Aganovich on Facebook here or on Twitter.

Words By Fashion Writer: Aicha Robertson
Editor: Florence Bailey